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A New Hollywood Restaurant Is Dedicated to Serving Japanese American Foodways - Eater LA

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Chef Brandon Kida, best known as the executive chef at Hinoki & the Bird in Century City and more casual concepts Go Go Gyoza and Go Go Bird in Culver City, brings Japanese American cooking to Hollywood at Gunsmoke. Tucked into the ground floor of Columbia Square Living (a luxury apartment tower), the restaurant opens on Friday, July 8, and will operate from Tuesday through Saturday from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Gunsmoke is named after a western radio show that was recorded at CBS Radio studio where the restaurant is now housed.

While Kida’s previous restaurants incorporated some of the chef’s Japanese heritage, Gunsmoke is the first one fully dedicated to serving dishes inspired by Kida’s second-generation nikkei experience. A dish of local raw tuna layered with country ham and green strawberry best encapsulates the chef’s culinary point of view at Gunsmoke. “For me, nikkei represents a snapshot of time and place,” Kida tells Eater in an email. “This plate brings together the marriage of two cultures — the Japanese sashimi-style crudo paired with country ham, a quintessential American ingredient.”

Rhino Williams, proprietor of Lost Property Bar in Hollywood, is charged with the beverage menu. Gunsmoke’s signature cocktail — a Kyoto ice tea — comes with vodka, gin, rum, tequila, and house made cantaloupe soda. Reservations are available here.

Local tuna with country ham and green strawberry at Gunsmoke in Hollywood.
Local tuna with country ham and green strawberry at Gunsmoke in Hollywood.
Erick Turcios

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Mei Lin’s QT Cup at Meet Fresh features mango-strawberry shaved ice with almond pudding, basil seeds, and mini taro balls.
Mei Lin’s QT Cup features mango-strawberry shaved ice with almond pudding, basil seeds, and mini taro balls.
Meet Fresh

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A New Hollywood Restaurant Is Dedicated to Serving Japanese American Foodways - Eater LA
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